Project-Revamping a t-shirt

Since releasing Vintage Linen II, I have had numerous queries regarding the t-shirt neckline designs in the collection and requests to create something in detail about the process, hence the blog. Before I even show the procedure, I would like to say that there is no way for me or anyone else to create a neckline that would fit everyone. As we all have different bodies, the most I can do is to create a section. This process requires templates to be placed in such a way that will work best for each and everyone. However I do want to point out that all the designs from the Vintage Linen II cutwork collection can be used for a cutwork edge on a t-shirt and friends are not limited to just the neckline designs that are included as a bonus with the collection.

In my last blog, I had indicated using Pellon sheer weight fusible interfacing behind the t-shirt (especially the area that will be cutaway). The t-shirt shown here is a 100% cotton and I didn’t use any stabilizer, except water soluble vilene to stitch out the designs. Yes, I wanted to push the envelope to its limits and see what would happen. The difference between the two t-shirts is minute and I am going to leave it up to personal preference whether to use the interfacing or not.

To start off, we do need to print out real size templates of the designs. The designs I have  used are the neckline designs in the collection. There are two designs which when joined together create one side of the neckline. So, I printed off the templates including mirror imaged ones for the other side. It helps to visually see what the finished project will look like before starting. I will recommend to friends to use a water soluble or air drying marking pen and mark their t-shirts prior to any embroidery. I am more of an eye baller and most times have been lucky, so please do use a marker to center the t-shirt neckline so you know exactly what you are doing. I will also recommend taking pictures with the templates to see how you like the effect.  Try on the t-shirt with the templates to see if the neckline is not too deep or wide. Anytime I sew something for myself, I always first try it on my double to check the look. The designs have an alignment square which when matched, creates the complete design. Notice that I’ve matched them up in the pictures.

The t-shirt that I had shown in my previous post had quite a high neck. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a single t-shirt which was similar to it, so I had to make adjustments in the center of the design. As you can see above, I over lapped the centers so I didn’t have too gaping a neckline.

With all cutwork, only a water soluble stabilizer can be used. I recommend water soluble vilene which is so forgiving than any of the plastic type water soluble stabilizers.  Only hoop the stabilizer and stitch out the alignment box and the cutwork outline (see pic right) directly upon it. These are the guidelines for us to position the t-shirt as well as an aid to multi-hooping. 

With the printed template still attached to the t-shirt, place the t-shirt upon the stitched out cutwork outline and box, match and pin t-shirt to the stabilizer. Be sure to do this with the hoop removed from the machine and laid on a flat surface. I also opened some of the shoulder seam as well as cut into the ribbing. This will help in keeping the t-shirt flat and easy to handle. Be sure to keep the pins away from the design area and do not stretch the t-shirt.

Place the hoop back in the machine and stitch out the cutwork trimming zigzag stitch. To trim away the fabric, I highly recommend placing the hoop on a flat surface and then trimming.  Trim to just the end of the zigzag stitch and not go past it. Fold the trimmed piece of fabric onto itself and pin it. See picture on left above. Place the hoop back in the machine and finish stitching out the design following the color chart. The design is  multi-color, with the leaves and part of the edge in one color and the flowers another color with small gold or silver candlewicks inside the flowers and scattered above the leaves. If preferred, the leaves and flowers can all be done in one color.

Part 1 of the design is completed! Cut away the stabilizer about an inch away from all the embroidery. Make sure not to cut out the alignment box as that will be necessary to match up the second part of the design.  Hoop another piece of water soluble vilene and load part b of the neckline design. Stitch out the alignment box and the cutwork outline stitch directly on the stabilizer.

It is imperative that the alignment box match up. The rest of the design will naturally line up once the box is matched. Follow the steps above to stitch out the second part. One side is completed and now you can follow the same steps to complete the other side. Be sure to mirror image the designs.

For the back side of the t-shirt, I used the plain edge design. But, as it was getting late and I was tired, I didn’t pay attention whether the design was up or down….result was that I ended up stitching the back side scallops upside down! It didn’t hurt anything except that was not what I had planned. Another thing… I found out that the scallop design can be used both ways, LOL.

Once all the embroidery is completed, sew up the shoulder seams and trim away all trimming threads. Rinse out all the vilene and better yet, soak the t-shirt, refreshing the water often. The end result…is not just any ordinary t-shirt! Have fun with this new method and experiment.

Note: I had the hardest time finding tshirts that were a bit more form fitting and without any buttons, frills and or writings. Seems like the plain T is no longer in vogue! Best places I did find form fitting PLAIN t-shirts were at Target and K-Mart.