Freestanding Lace Machine Embroidered Trims

For quite some while now I have  had numerous requests regarding the trims used on the Jacobean Symphony Shawls. I had envisioned in presenting both collections at the same time as they do favour each other well, but I wanted the trims collection to be able to stand on its own and not be a part of the Jacobean Symphony. In my mind, I’ve always wanted to create trims that were under 2″ to 1/2″ in height. I have created Kanta laces that are in such a manner yet when I started working on these trims, I wanted a hand look to them and also extremely delicate and low stitch count. Hence….the birth of Tambour Lace Trims.

Not only were the trims extremely low stitch count yet they had the look and feel of hand work as well as a delicate look and feel. LOL, that is a lot of demands especially when one is thinking of freestanding laces created by the home embroidery machines. As the laces were delicate I wanted their joints and methods of joining together to create continuous lace panels to be very easy and without any definite feel of a joint.

When I was working on the Gift 2007 design, I had created a method which allowed the embroiderer to join the lace within the hoop. Taking that same method I applied it to the laces in Tambour Lace Trims.

To give an example, I will use Tambour Lace Trims 5 design. In the trims,  only one color of thread is used. However, the color chart shows two colors. This is deliberately created to stop the machine. However, if one is using software to connect the laces so the laces would stitch out on a larger hoop size continuously then these added marks need not be stitched. Different types of marks are given for each of the trims, some are alike though.

Hoop water soluble stabilizer only. Same color thread may be used in the bobbin as the top thread. As the laces are really light it is okay to use the top thread in the bobbin case. I would advise friends to invest in a secon bobbin case. I have one for each of my machines. This allows me to loosen or tighten the bobbin case to use with specialty threads. The first stitch out would be the marks, one can stitch them or not for the first lace panel. Stitch out the lace.

Once the lace is stitched out, trim about an inch away of the water soluble stabilizer from the lace panel. Hoop another piece of water soluble stabilizer and stitch out the first marks. Look at the lace and you will see that the mark matches the end part of the lace. This is specially digitized so there wouldn’t be an overlapping and a knot in the lace when joined.

Place the stitched out lace next to the mark and matching it pin through all layers to attach to the wss. The next lace will catch the joining areas and make it so the lace looks continuous. Ofcourse one can also use the sewing machine to join the laces if one wants. What needs to be done is not to wash out the wss, rather trim about an inch away from all sides of the lace and then using a narrow zigzag join the laces.

The tiny candlewicks forming the trims or the fringe mimic the freestanding lace fringes that I had created for the Paisley and the Marrakesh collections except these have more substance to them and they are small compared to the 7″ and the 9″ long fringes that I had created then.

To accompany the designs, I created some insertion type cutwork designs with continuous borders that would blend together with the trims. The black georgette shawl shown above uses some of the designs as well as the trims.

One of my visions was to create an  heirloom baby quilt using the Tambour Lace trims designs and the trims. Using the cutwork designs as the center I stitched out 10″ blocks on off white georgette which I then backed with heavy satin. Satin sashings and the trims gave the quilt a definite heirloom effect.

So, whether a modern day look or an heirloom look, the trims are excellent for finishing up hems, on pillowcases, table toppers, sleeves, etc. The designs are released now and I hope they can inspire friends to create heirlooms for tomorrow.